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The question nobody asks first

Can you even get to it?

Five places equipment ends up, crossed with the four reasons it becomes hard to reach. What each means for the visit, what it costs over the life of the equipment, and the one situation where nobody is going in until something changes.

Read this first

Three things that apply to every answer below

  • Access is a cost, and it is charged whether anybody names it or not

    A unit that takes twenty minutes to reach is maintained; one that takes an hour is maintained less often, quietly, by everybody who ever works on it. Over fifteen years that is the difference between equipment that reaches its life and equipment that does not. The cheapest improvement available to most buildings is not to the equipment at all.

  • One photograph of the way in prevents most of the surprises

    Send a picture of the hatch, the door, the ladder point or the steps before the visit, with a tape measure in it if you have one. We will tell you whether it is one person or two, whether anything needs clearing, and whether the job can be done at all. It costs nothing and it is the single most useful thing a customer can do.

  • We will not enter a space that is not safe, and that is not negotiable

    It is not a judgement about your building and it is not an upsell. It means a roof edge with nothing to stop a fall, an attic with no fixed boarding, a crawl space with standing water or exposed wiring, or a space that cannot be ventilated. In each case we will tell you exactly what would make it workable and roughly what that costs. What we will not do is go in and hope, which is how people in this trade get hurt.

Two questions

Work out what the visit involves

Pick where the equipment is and pick what is in the way. Every answer below is on this page whether you pick anything or not — the picker only narrows it down.

If there is no safe way in, nobody is going in until that changes

This is the one flat answer on the page, and it is worth being precise about what it means rather than leaving it as a vague objection. On a roof: no parapet or guard at the edge, no anchor point, and a unit within a few feet of a drop. In an attic: no fixed boarding, so the only footing is joists and ceiling plaster. In a crawl space: standing water with live electrics, exposed or damaged wiring, no second exit, or a space too shallow to work in without crushing your own chest. Anywhere: a ladder that is not secured, or a space that cannot be ventilated. What we will do instead: tell you precisely what is missing, specify what would fix it, give you a realistic figure, and co-ordinate with whoever installs it. Most of these are small: a few sheets of boarding, a fixed ladder, a guard rail, a pump and a light. What we will not do is go in anyway, and it is worth saying that a contractor who does is not being helpful to you either — the accident happens on your property.

Send a photograph of the opening. The hatch size decides everything else.

A crawl space job is defined by two numbers: how big the opening is and how much headroom there is once you are through it. Both are measurable in a minute and both change the visit completely — including whether a replacement appliance can physically get in and out.

What we look at, and what is worth improving

  • The opening. If the appliance cannot come out through it, a future replacement means either enlarging the opening or cutting a floor. Knowing which, now, is worth a great deal.
  • Headroom and the route. Working on your back under ductwork is slower than working kneeling, and every visit is priced accordingly whether anybody itemises it or not.
  • The ground. Bare earth, a vapour barrier, or standing water. Water in a crawl space is a mechanical problem as well as a building one, because ducts and appliances down there are affected by it.
  • Light and power. A permanent light and a socket is perhaps the cheapest single improvement in this whole page, and it shortens every future visit.
  • Whether the appliance is on something. Blocks dry-stacked under a furnace are extremely common and are not a mounting.

Find out whether there is a boarded walkway. Without one, the visit is a survey and not a repair.

An attic with no fixed boarding has no safe footing, and the risk is not only to the person — a foot through a ceiling is an expensive afternoon for everybody. Boarding a route from the hatch to the unit and a working platform around it is a modest job and it changes every future visit.

What an attic installation needs to be workable

  • A fixed route and a platform from the hatch to the unit, wide enough to stand on and to set tools down on.
  • A light at the hatch and another at the unit, on a switch. Head torches are not a substitute when both hands are needed.
  • Headroom at the unit itself, enough to take a panel off. A great many attic air handlers cannot have their filter changed without contortion, which is why the filter has not been changed.
  • A drain pan and a float switch. Equipment above a ceiling needs both, and the float switch is the thing that stops a slow condensate leak becoming a ceiling.
  • A safe hatch and ladder. A drop-down ladder rated for a person carrying equipment, not a rickety original.

Attic temperature matters too. Equipment and ductwork in a space that reaches well over a hundred degrees in summer performs worse and ages faster, and insulating the ducts is usually worth more than anything done to the unit.

Measure the door opening. A great many closet appliances cannot be removed through their own door.

Closet installations are the most common and the most frequently mis-planned. The appliance went in before something else did, and the opening has been narrowed by a frame, a wall or a floor finish since. It makes no difference at all until replacement day, when it makes a large one.

Closet installations, and the two things that go wrong

The first is clearance. Appliances have required clearances at the front and sides for service and, on gas equipment, for combustion air and for safety. Closets get narrowed, shelving gets added, and the appliance ends up in a space that no longer meets what the manufacturer specified. On a gas appliance that is not a nuisance, it is a safety matter and we will say so.

The second is the combustion air supply. A gas furnace or water heater in a closet needs a defined supply of air, usually through louvres or grilles of a specified size. Those get covered, blocked by storage, or sealed during a draught-proofing job by somebody who did not know what they were for. It is invisible and it is genuinely dangerous.

Worth checking too: whether the closet has become a linen store, which is the commonest cause of a blocked filter and a starved return; and whether the door itself is louvred for a reason.

Tell us how we get up there and what the edge looks like. That decides whether the job happens at all.

Rooftop plant is the most common commercial arrangement and the one where access is most often unresolved. The two questions are the route up — a fixed ladder, a hatch, a shared stair — and whether somebody can work safely near the unit given where it sits relative to the edge.

What has to be in place before rooftop work

  • A fixed means of getting up, in good order. A portable ladder against a parapet is not a maintenance arrangement.
  • Edge protection or distance. A unit well back from the edge behind a parapet is straightforward. A unit close to an unguarded edge needs guard rails or anchor points, and until it has them the job does not happen.
  • A route across the roof that does not damage the covering. Walkway matting is cheap and it prevents an expensive roofing argument.
  • Knowledge of what is under you. Fragile rooflights are the single most common cause of serious accidents on flat roofs, and they are frequently painted over.
  • A plan for getting equipment up. On a replacement this means a crane or a hoist and usually a road closure, and it is worked out before anything is ordered.

Measure the gap. Under about three feet, most work becomes a two-person job or a relocation conversation.

Outdoor units in narrow side passages are normal in this city and mostly fine. What changes with the width is the clearance the manufacturer requires for airflow, and whether a person can get a panel off, kneel beside it and work.

Narrow passages, steps and back gardens

Clearance is a performance question, not only a working one. A condenser boxed into a passage narrower than the manufacturer specifies recirculates its own hot air and loses capacity, and it does so quietly — the system still runs, it just costs more and works harder. That is measurable and it is worth measuring before anybody concludes the unit is too small.

Then the practical items: whether a panel can be removed with the unit where it is; whether there is room to set gauges and tools down; whether the route from the street involves steps, gates narrower than the equipment, or a neighbour’s land.

Where a unit genuinely cannot be worked on where it stands, relocating it is often cheaper over ten years than paying for the difficulty every single visit — and on a replacement it costs very little extra, because the equipment is coming out anyway. We will tell you when that is the case and when it is not.

Storage and belongings in the way

Much the commonest reason, and the easiest to fix, provided it is known about before the visit rather than discovered during it.

We will tell you what needs clearing and how much space is needed, and we will do that when you book rather than when we arrive. What we will not do is move your possessions: we are not insured to, things get damaged, and a visit that becomes an afternoon of shifting boxes helps nobody and gets charged for.

One thing worth treating as more than tidiness: clearance around a gas appliance is a safety requirement, not a convenience. Boxes stacked against a furnace or leaning on a flue are a fire and a carbon monoxide risk, and if we find that we will say so plainly and ask you to keep it clear permanently rather than for the afternoon.

Something has been built around it

A cupboard fitted in front of the unit, a deck built over the condenser, a wall that narrowed the opening, a false ceiling under an attic hatch. Usually done by somebody who had no reason to think about it, and usually invisible until the equipment needs attention.

What we do: establish exactly what has to be removed to reach the unit and what it would take to put back, and tell you before the visit so you can decide who does that part. Sometimes it is a panel that lifts out in five minutes and nobody realised. Sometimes it is a carpenter.

What is worth doing when it happens: take the opportunity. If something has to come apart anyway, that is the moment to put in a removable access panel, enlarge an opening or relocate the unit — because it will never be cheaper than it is on the day the space is already open.

And on decks over condensers specifically: it is not only an access problem. A unit under a deck with insufficient clearance above it recirculates its own discharge air and loses capacity, and that is measurable.

There is no safe way in

Read the note above, because that is the substance. What is worth adding here is that this is almost always cheaper to fix than people expect, and that fixing it is a one-off against a cost that otherwise recurs forever.

A few sheets of boarding and a platform in an attic. A fixed ladder to a roof hatch. A guard rail on one edge. A sump pump and a permanent light in a crawl space. None of those is a large job, and each one converts a space that contractors avoid into a space that gets maintained properly.

We will specify what is needed in writing, give you a realistic figure, and co-ordinate with whoever installs it. What we do not do is build it ourselves — fixed ladders, walkways, edge protection and structural openings belong to a builder or a specialist, and we would rather say that than take on work we are not the right trade for.

It is locked, or it is not on your property

A plant room somebody else holds the key to, a roof reached through another tenancy, a side passage that belongs to the house next door, a shared cupboard in a communal area. All ordinary, all solvable, and all of them need arranging before the visit rather than on the day.

What we need: the owner’s or the manager’s authority, in writing, and a name and a number for whoever actually holds the key. Where access crosses somebody else’s property we need their permission too, and that is a conversation for you or your managing agent rather than for a technician standing at a gate.

What we will not do is force access, let ourselves in on an assumption, or work on equipment we have not been authorised to reach. It sounds obvious written down and it is the source of a surprising number of disputes.

One practical suggestion for managed buildings: keep a single access note — who holds keys, what the codes are, which hatch, which ladder — with the plant records. It saves a wasted visit roughly every other year.

Where this page stops

We will tell you before a visit what the access means for it, ask for the photographs that settle it, specify what would make a difficult space workable and roughly what that costs, and write an access note into every survey so the next person is not starting from nothing.

We will not enter an unsafe space, force access we have not been given, move your belongings, or build the access works ourselves. If a gas appliance is in a space with blocked combustion air or storage against it, that is the one thing on this page that is urgent and we will say so on the day.